'New textures, colors highlight spring leathers'
LEATHERS for spring 1956 emphasize recent advances in technology. At the recent Opening of American Leathers for Spring held by the Tanners' Council of America at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, New York, a wealth of new finishes, new treatments, new effects were displayed.
Luster finishes continue to be important, and new developments have enabled tanners to apply these to various types of skins; kips with new luster effects were most interesting. Printed leathers were in evidence everywhere, and woven, embossed, perforated textures were given importance.
The Oriental influence was one which tanners interpreted in various ways; foremost among these were delicate Japanese tints, Indian and Persian prints.
Highlights of leathers shown by some of the tanners follow.
Allied Kid Co. —New developments include Stardust Kid, Paisley Kid, Florentine Kid, Scotch Plaid Colt, Tapestry Suede in bowknot, cobweb and smoke ring patterns. Also tweed kid in black. A wide range of colors in glazed kid, crushed goat, suede kid; also Heather leather in honeycomb, boucle, herringbone, highland patterns.
Amalgamated Leather Co. — Non-crockable suedes, pearlized kips in large skins for handbags, Frostee kid. New pale clear colors in pastel kid— baby blue, pink. Spanish colors in suede — Flamenco red, gloria blue, green. Rock Candy, an oatmeal shade neutral.
American Hide & Leather Co. — Group of Japanese colors from Cane, a soft neutral, to Samurai Red. Also printed effects on calfskin, in large and small patterns, floral, geometric effects. Woven treatments include a linen-weave.
FERN PRINT, left, on calfskin, and the new linen weave at the right. American Hide & Leather Company
J. S. Barnet & Sons — Calfskin in aniline and semi-aniline finishes, pearl lusters. Fleurette, all-over floral with pearlescent finish. Gingham pattern on calf; pastels; deep tones.
Chiletvich Sous & Co. — Hair on calf in leopard and zebra patterns. All colors in fur calf, including pastel. Reptiles—lizards of all kinds, snakes, some domestic alligators, agua skins.
''HAIR ON CALF in solid colors at the left and in an attractive zebra pattern at the right. Chilewich Sons & Co.''
Colonial Tanning Co. — Pearlescent patent, novelties. Luster kips in pastels (pink, blue, white, yellow, avocado, wisteria.) Ice colors, paler than pastel. Satin patent; chrome patent for handbags. Also embossed patterns in polka dot, harlequin, striped designs.
HARLEQUIN design embossed on patent leather, left, and polka dot design also embossed, from Colonial Tanning Company
Donnell & Mudge, Inc. — Hand sprayed sheepskin in spiderweb pattern for wallets, French purses. Smooth and embossed sheep and lambskins.
HAND SPRAYED sheepskin in spiderweb paf-tern for wallets, French purses and purse accessories. Donnell & Mudge
John R. Evans & Co. — Kid in suede and smooth finish; goatskins; capeskins; pigskins. Silk screen prints on glazed kid; new designs by Cadwallader.
GAILY COLORED prints on kidskin or crushed goatskin. Left, a spiral design; right, abstract floral. John R. Evans
Fleming-Joffe, Ltd. — Soft glove tannage on reptiles. Mat finish on Makassar and Chandori lizards. Patent leather lizard—rice-grained lizard in Japanese and Chinese colors. New soft textured alligator. Japanese colors ranging from bright Melon to Emperor's Gold. Silk-screened Japanese-inspired prints on Makassar and snakeskin.
SILK-SCREENED prints of Japanese inspiration on Makassar lizard and snalceslcm. Flem-ing-Joffe, Ltd
Garden State Tanning — Pearlized cowhide, softee leather, calf-finished cowhide for rigidly constructed bags. Steerhide for wallets; complete range of colors.
Geilich Leather Co. — Brushed leathers; new effects on kip—Cambi-Ruff, reverse sueded; Cambi-Buck, finely sueded; Cambi-Kerry, sueded with shrunken grain; Cambi-Sofgrain, grained in super soft tannage.
Gutmann & Co. — Milano kip, soft shrunken grain; shrunken, softie, an embossed cowhide.
Hoy I & Wort hen Tanning Corp.— Belt and handbag leathers. Sheepskin (skivers) ; cape type, in 80 colors. Smooth and crushed. Romance aniline (two-tone, crushed). Honey aniline for linings; chamois.
CAMBI-KERRY, a sueded Kip with interesting shrunken grain. Available in colors from Geilich Leather Company
E. Hubschman & Sons — Wide range of colors in regular and aniline calf. Neutral beiges to browns; Oriental colors; chalk tones. Pastels in Lumina finish in flower tints.
Irving Tanning Co.—Smooth leather in 35 colors; kips and extremes for handbags; Beaverette ecrased for large bags. Unicork in chalk colors, pastels. Belt leathers—heavy sides; prints.
G.Levor & Co. — Washable whites. Non-crockable suedes. LaunderLeather.
Lowengart & Co. — Aniline buffalo in wide color range. Swirl effect on suede kid; perforated and weave patterns on buffalo calf and kips; irregular plaids on cowhide; ink blot pattern on cow-hide.
IRREGULAR plaid on cowhide, left; swirl design on suede; ink blot pattern on cowhide. Loewengart & Company
Hermann Loewenstein — Corkette and aniline; Kafalope; patent in various new treatments such as Diamond Dust, subtle three-dimensional luster; polka dot; shadow dot; doodle; satin stripe. Plaid patent. Modern stylized plaid on calf. Oriental metallic treatment on Kafalope; Candy Stripe; brocade calfskin. Also suede calf.
DRAGNET on calf, left, and Fancy Free on Corkette, two new developments from Hermann Loewenstein, Inc.
The Ohio Leather Co. —Complete range of colors in calfskin, in both aniline and regular finishes.
Seton Leather Co. — Dover leather, soft crushed cowhide in many colors.
Simon-Sigma Leather Mfg. Corp. — Laminates on suede in three distinctive patterns. Crushed gold cabrettas.
LAMINATES on suede. From left, Fleur de Lys, Petit Point, Gold Lace, all in gold on suede. Simon-Sigma
"Handbags & Accessories" October 1955, pages 20-21